Showing posts with label adventure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adventure. Show all posts

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Granada: A Hit and Run


I wish I had seen and done more in Grenada then ended up happening.  Granada is quite a beautiful and quaint colonial city that I found to be more aesthetically pleasing than that of Leon or Antigua (ha you all know how I feel about Antigua). Granada has a busy central park area that I was quite drawn to on our first afternoon in the city. Regan was catching up on much needed hours of sleep and I was itching to move around after the bus ride so I sauntered into town when Regan’s siesta began.  There are some local artisan markets located on the edges of the park and all around it, food and drink stands occupy the outline of the park, making it the afternoon local social mecca of Granada. I bought myself an old school glass bottle of orange Fanta and found myself a park bench from which to people watch and catch up on my journal. 


I didn’t have my journal open more than a minute before I noticed an old man on my right walking his bike right past my bench.  He smiled kindly and said ‘hola’ and I returned the gesture with the same kind of smile.  Before I knew it, we were in the midst of a long conversation, one I didn’t expect to end anytime soon but that was okay. In fact it was great and refreshing to finally just meet someone and have the type of Spanish conversation I had been dying to have for a long time.  His name was Guillermo and he was a genuine, kind old Nica man that sat down on my bench and brightened my whole afternoon with simple conversation and laughter that could be considered contagious. We talked and talked, and in moments sometimes we just people watched and observed out loud our thoughts, he was comical and I valued the slight differences in his understanding of life.  Some people will come in and out of your life on the most unexpected days and make a lasting impression on you that you could never forget. This was the old man Guillermo to me on that lazy Saturday afternoon.


On the day that Regan made her journey to the Tree House Hostel, I stayed at the Bearded Monkey and had a business day.  I washed my clothes, did a little food shopping, made some calls to corporate enterprises in the states via Nicaraguan Skype (terrible experience) and received a whole bunch of new movies from my friends in the hostel doing exactly the same things.  I caught up with her there the next day, but its always nice to reset yourself for a day while on the open road.

Narrator switch- it's Regan now. While Katie had her business day in Granada (a city I found quite charming but overall a bit tourist-meets-university style) I headed off for the Treehouse Hostel, just outside the city. True to its word, the main building is indeed a treehouse, complete with rope bridges and connecting platforms. It was a pretty laid back place, with most of us choosing to read or chat during the day. Night time was a pretty different story, however. We gathered for an incredible sunset, and then the fun began! 




After a family dinner with some of the best homemade bread I've ever tasted, the drinking began with a medley of games, including a race to see who had the fastest time through the obstacle course. You start by taking a shot, chugging a beer, running up the stairs to the upper floor- dodging chairs, a table, and cats- and then sliding down a fire pole and darting to tag the bar again. Given my history of being utterly and completely accident prone, I sat that one out. 


Next came the cicadas. This place is literally abuzz with these flying monstrosities. During the day the level is at a dull roar, but at night the sound is deafening, and their attraction to the lights is absolutely moronic. Being the size of cockroaches, these things are more like kamikazes than bugs as they dive bomb around the open-air hostel. One of the cats, aptly named Lunchbox, catches and eats these things at an appalling pace; I'd say it averages 2 cicadas per minute. We chose to follow suit, except we de-winged (not a word? It is now) ours and fried them in garlic butter. Garlic, as we all know, makes everything delicious. Cicadas are no exception. 


The night ended with ceiling footprints. Yes, ceiling footprints. The ceiling over the bar is covered with footprints and signed names, usually accompanied by a year and/or country. Getting up there is your own challenge. I opted for the easy way out and had two guys lift me while a third person used my painted foot as a stamp and guided me to an open spot. A few of my fellow hostel-goers were more creative, doing handstands or wild swings from the fire pole. Some of these feats ended well. Others... well, at least they were most likely beyond pain at that point. 


Katie joined the next day, and was greeted by a far more subdued hostel than I had walked into. A chill day in the woods, with a short trip to the beach, was followed by an equally low-key movie night. While we enjoyed the relaxation and isolation of the Treehouse, we made moves to head out the following day. 

Monday, March 4, 2013

Life in Leon Part 1

Regan and I left El Tunco early in the A.M. and still under the influence. I revived myself with a much needed detox smoothie and fortunately my travel buds allowed me to take shot-gun in our mini-van for the 10 hour ride.  At this point in time, Regan and I were on the road with our friend Ieuan (pronounced Yayan) from Whales and he soon gained the nickname of "little brother" for all his "brother-like" tendencies, both good and...yeah.

It was easy enough to get out of El Salvador; paved windy roads brought us along the coast and eventually navigated inward towards the boarder of Honduras.  The beneficial thing about this particular bus was that 1) it had Wifi so it was a good time for business if you had a laptop or iphone 2) AC = AWESOME and 3) the driver of the van took care of everyone's boarder crossings meaning, we just handed him our passports and boarder fees and chilled in the van while he sorted everything out.  The bus fare for this trip is slightly more expensive for this reason, but it is easier for him and easier for us as boarder crossings can be spread out and confusing for non-native Spanish speakers now and again.

10 hours later, we were parked outside Bigfoot Hostel in Leon, and man were we stoked to check in and get a drink at the hostel bar!  After a late order for pizza and a few brews, the day of traveling, and a hangover that sent me back to my college days, it was official that the day had kicked our ass and so we hit the hay and slept like babies. 

The next week was culture and Mayhem, all rolled up into this detailed summary of events:

Sunday- Cock Fights: For $12USD, you get round trip transport, open-bar and a tutorial from the guide on Nicaraguan cock fighting.  Now, I know some of you readers are not in support of seeing this, totally cool.  I went back and forth morally about this and I still do, however for me it was a different way to see a part of Nica culture and gave me a more well-rounded view of local life down here.  I also believed that judging this without having a better understanding of it would not be cool for me personally so I made moves to educate myself. Overall, I'm glad I learned about it, there's a lot more behind this than people know.

Monday- Kind of a chill day in Leon for us.  Our buddy Ieuan took us around Leon, giving us the tourist tour of the city ("this bar is good" or "best street food is right here" etc.).  We did some errands and shopped, and after building up a sweat - this city gets HOTT - went for an ice cream and played a little air-hockey where I proceeded to kick everyones ass. Thanks dad- for making me such a good air-hockey player.

Tuesday- Volcano Boarding.  I'm Sorry, I meant VOLCANO BOARDING!! What an epic day! While all you kids where chillin' out in the snow (no pun intended) we were getting our sweat on hiking up the active volcano known as Cerro Negro, where some people have hit speeds of up to 90km/hr. LOCO! *** If you go, I would suggest acquiring a bandana you can rip in two, and tie the ankles of your suit tight to you, so that your legs don't get torn up by the volcanic rocks.  Bigfoot hostel ends your tour with beer, cookies and mojitos :) What could be better?!

Wednesday- Leon does it big for 'El Classico' the annual match(es) between FC Barcelona and Real Madrid. We got some drinks in and watched the game at a popular sports bar with a massive projector screen and plenty of crazy locals in support of both sides.  1-1 result and an afternoon followed by more drinks... :)

Oh Leon, layin' it on us every day and night. Regan will let you in on the rest of our crazy week.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Livin la Vida at Lake Atitlan!

Hola -Smitty here, keeping things rollin' on...
We took a full day to recover after our New Years Eve night, it was necessary and we spent the day lounging around on bean bags and watching Guatemalan pirated DVD's at the hostel. I think I made a run to subway later that day too- the Italian BMT sub is Hangover Heaven!

The following day, we left with a friend and took a 2+ hour bus ride to Lake Atitlan.  Our shuttle took us on a winding road to the town of Panajachel, and from there we went to the docks and caught a water taxi across the lake to the town of San Pedro.  While en-route, I had the luxury of becoming a human shield for Caitlin and Al so that they would not get splashed on. (This was NOT a voluntary move and I was not pleased about coming out of the boat looking like a wet dog). 

When we got there, we followed our amigo who had been to San Pedro before, and wound up at a place called Café Atitlan.  I had a great first night out flying solo as my companions were dead tired and total party poopers. We moved the next day to another spot called Mr. Mullet's Hostel which became our home away from home.  For only 30Q/night (that's $3.70 USD!) we had a 4 person dorm, free Wifi, HOT SHOWERS (yes - few and far between) brand new mattress that allowed me to sleep like a baby, Kitchen, etc.  More then all the fabulous amenities,  what won me over was the atmosphere and the overall friendliness of the staff. The owner Tim aka Mr. Mullet himself, is a very chill guy and has put together a solid place for the weary traveler to rest his or her head. I highly recommend anyone passing through San Pedro to stay at Mullets- its cheap, its cozy, and its a real, real good time.

While we were in San Pedro we had a little fun and brightened our horizons with an array of new activities. We kayaked around the lake, we did an afternoon of horseback riding, explored the local market (where you can stuff yourself for less than $1 US dollar full of delicious local dishes) and we even attended a roaring local Basketball match, where some quetzals were thrown down for bets on the winner of the game.

One of the best things about San Pedro however, is the American Style BBQ that takes place at Deep End Bar & Pool every Sunday afternoon. You can get anything from beef or pork ribs, to burgers, rump steaks, even bacon wrapped fillet minion (and one plate can easily feed two people) They also do 5Q tequila shots on the hour, every hour [interjection from Caitlin: our group of friends teamed up with one goal in mind: DO NOT LET KATIE DISCOVER ITS THE FIRST FIVE MINUTES OF AN HOUR. She had the habit of showing up with a tray with 15 or more shots, and just scanning like a deadly eagle, looking for some poor person to hand a tequila shot to. Even more than she loves tequila, Katie loves making people do tequila shots with her. Especially once she finds out you loathe tequila]. Sunday, fun-day amigos!

I can honestly say that I had TOO much fun here, and eventually, to save myself from mortal peril due to excess enjoyment of life itself, we had to make moves to keep keeping on.

Author switch! So I agree with everything Katie said. San Pedro is an amazing place, probably the stop on our journey where I've felt most at home. There's a ton to do- kayaking, jumping off the "trampoline" at San Marcos, trivia night at El Barrio, impromptu Aussie weddings at Buddha Bar, horseback riding, poolside lounging, and heaps more. And yes, we did do ALL of the aforementioned activities. Our team did abysmally at trivia, I remembered my love-hate relationship with horses, and was a proud bridesmaid in the wedding of Brent and Taighen (our favorite Aussie couple, whom we first met in Lanquin. Fun fact- Brent is responsible for my "Reggie" nickname). Not sure if it'll hold up to Australian law, but it was good enough for all of us!

I also strongly agree with Katie's last statement- San Pedro will eat you alive if you aren't careful. From the deadly happy hour at Zoola hostel (free shot with every drink from 4-11pm), to the late night partying at Buddha bar, to the even LATER night after-party at Psy-House (an uninhabited house that turns into an unlicensed bar and trance club once everything else shuts down) it's easy to let itineraries, goals, and life in general slip away as you fall into a comfortable rhythm with great people. We planned on being there for a few days, and all of a sudden ten had flown by! I fully plan on returning to the Lake for the last portion of my trip, and can't wait to reunite with some truly epic individuals.

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Lanquin and Semuc Champey

Alright so after dealing witht two bouts of food poisoning, a sliced open foot, severe chest cold, and bed bugs (ALL in the last two weeks), I've concluded that either I've reaaaaally pissed someone off in the karma system, or I'm being punished for ignoring this blog for so long. My theory is that if I do 1.6 million random acts of kindness, and update this thing, I should be alright.

So Katie provided an epic account of Mirador- truly a life-changing experience. We continue to run into some of the friends we've made there along this Gringo Trail we're traveling, and we couldn't be happier about it! Seeing as how we've been absolutely terrible at updating this blog, we'll work to take you guys up to date bit-by-bit, since no one wants to read a 20-paragraph blog entry.

Once we returned to Flores from Mirador, Katie, Sofia, and I booked a bus to Lanquín, to check out the glorious pools of Semuc Champey. We landed at the Zephyr Lodge, a beautiful spot with sweeping views of the valley and crystal river below. In fact, we spent Christmas Day tubing down that very river with a crew from Zephyr and a bag of beers (props to Brenda the beer wench, nicely done!). Christmas night consisted of an awesome party, complete with tequila shots and one very epic speech by Dieter (a Guatemalan who was taught to drink by Irish guys... this man is a legend).

We took a day off to recover, and then all hopped in the back of a pickup truck and arrived at Semuc Champey after a very bumpy 20 minute ride. The day was pretty action-packed; first we explored a water-filled cave using only candles (easier than you might think... definitely a unique experience). After that it was time for the infamous rope swing. Everyone we'd talked to said they got absolutely WRECKED on this thing, but we all did pretty well. Except for that one girl... but I'm sure she's recovered by now. Because we hadn't had enough action yet, we decided to jump off the 30 foot bridge on our way to the park.

Hiking around the park was awesome, with the gorgeous views being well-worth the climb. Semuc Champey's main attraction is a series of crystal blue pools formed by the Cahabón River. They're stepped, so water flows down from one to another, and there are endless possibilities for jumping and climbing. After we'd exhausted all our energy, it was time to clamber back into the pickup and force our jello-like limbs to cling on for the jolting ride home. 



We spent another day at Zephyr enjoying the views and meeting some fantastic, Jager-loving Aussies who promptly awarded me the nickname of Reginald, or Reggie for short. I've been going by Regan down here, since the whole "Cait and Katie" thing seemed to be confusing for people, and we were both sick of responding only to find that it was the other Caitlin/Katelyn being summoned. Anyway, after our fun-filled stay at Zephyr, it was time to head to Antigua to kick off the New Year! 

Monday, December 17, 2012

On to Guatemala!

The day after ATM a group of us decided to explore the surrounding area in search of come cliff-jumping that we'd heard of. We set off with the intention of taking a bus to the next town, but somehow ended up renting 2 canoes off a local man and the six of us, along with a couple bottles of rum, ventured upstream. It didn't take long for chaos to ensue- flipped canoes, surprise rapids, war wounds. All in all one of the funniest days so far this trip.

On Friday, Katie, myself, and our friend Mark packed up our stuff and headed to Xunantunich to check out our first Mayan ruin site. A word to the wise- if an old man named Star (who smokes way too much pot, and talks like Cookie Monster) assures you that you can find a safe spot at a hotel to store your gear while you hike Xunantunich... don't listen to him. Luckily a nice bartender we spoke to named Ismenia agreed to put our stuff behind the bar while we adventured. Overall it was an epic experience. Looking at this towering ruins and realizing that the ancient Mayans shaped and placed each stone by hand is just mind-blowing. It was great that we were allowed to climb up to the top, and have this incredible view of Belize and Guatemala.


After that began a trip into Guatemala that can be described as nothing short of disaster. Crossing the border on foot was a piece of cake- however, if you are a "gringo" and you are driving a car across, be prepared to stop for a couple of hours while your car is thoroughly searched. Once across the border, Katie and I ignored the the slew of taxi drivers following us who assured us the last bus had departed for the evening, and that the colectivo was a 2km walk away. Rule #17- never trust a taxi driver.

The bus ride itself was uneventful, aside from the two stops during which soldiers with AKs boarded the bus and searched the compartments. Unsettling, to say the least. Overall, we made it to Flores safe and sound and met up with our friends from San Ignacio (minus Mark, plus a new friend named Sofia) and the six of us have been exploring the town and drinking beers on the docks by the lake. Pretty rough life, eh?

Final note: this may be the last post before THE END OF THE WORLD! No one down here actually believe this- from what we can gather, it's seen as a new beginning, focusing more on the start of a new calendar than the end of the old one. However, that hasn't stopped people all over from organizing End of the World parties, and many tours are offering special deals to the ruins. At least four of us plan to spend The End at El Mirador, an ancient Mayan site way up in the jungles of northern Guatemala. It will be a 5-day trek, with us reaching El Mirador on the 21st. It's one of the harder journeys you can take, and we're all pretty stoked about it. Expect a lengthy blog entry about our journey when we get back! That is, if the aliens don't get us.

Much love,
Regan and Smitty

Thursday, December 13, 2012

Last Days on the Caye

Our last few days on Caye Caulker consisted of blissful days lying on the beach by the Split and enjoying great food with new friends. Katie and I had originally planned to leave the Caye on Monday, but this awesome Aussie couple we met convinced us to stay and relax a bit longer- not that we needed much convincing. By this point we'd met a decent amount of locals that were wicked helpful pointing out hole-in-the-wall eating spots that we never would have discovered on our own. The Kitchen, located a few blocks off the main strip, is a perfect example. The tables are located two flights up on a deck, with a great view of the island, an amazing breeze, and even better conch fritters and chicken salbutes!

By Tuesday we were ready to head on to our next destination- San Ignacio, by the Guatemalan border. Some of the coolest Mayan ruins in Belize are located in the area, and that was our main objective for heading there. We hopped on a water taxi to Belize City, where we met an American guy named Mark- he and Katie bonded over their epic amount of bugbites. My theory is that if I keep hanging out with these two I will NEVER be bitten. I have perhaps 10 bites total compared to their 100+ apiece. Mark didn't have a destination so he decided to join us, and me and the two insect-magnets hopped in a cab and headed to to San Ignacio, with a quick detour at the Belize Zoo.

We arrived in San Ignacio, tossed our stuff down, and set off to book a tour of the ATM caves (Actun Tunichil Muknal) about an hour outside the city. Once that was accomplished, we settled in to have some beers and dinner, and hit the hay early in preparation for our tour the next day!