Oh My! Ometepe!

Hola - Smitty here :)

Leaving the Tree house was easy enough to do, for me anyway. It was a beautiful place and the idea behind it was equally so but at that moment it just wasn’t satisfying my travel taste-buds. We walked out of the forest and across the yellowing pasture of the farm below until we arrived at the main road.  We were a pack of typical gringo backpackers waiting to hitch a ride or jump onto the next passing chicken bus, and the latter was what we ended up doing.  Rounded up like a bunch of stray cattle, we shuffled into the back of the chicken bus and swayed back and forth as the bus bumped along in the heat of the day.  It took us as far as Rivas before we needed to take a taxi to the docks on our way to the island of Ometepe.

The ferry ride was an hour or so and as scenic as ever, but the children on board that didn’t enjoy the swell on the massive lake were reason enough for me to put my headphones on and fade away for a bit.

We learned right off that the taxis on Ometepe are expensive, but on this occasion a necessary evil.  We were happy to get away from the pack after we picked a place that wasn’t in everyone’s budget (the decision making process of the pack was falling apart.)  Just as we were checking in we saw some Swedes we knew from El Tunco and word on the street was that there was a good party “just down the road” that night so, that was the plan.  “Just down the road” was “just a little bit of an understatement” as we walked for nearly an hour and without my headlamp the darkness would have swallowed us up. We drank shots of moonshine (yes moonshine in Nicaragua) and caught up with our Swedish friends.

We had a few rainy days on the island where we caught up on life and relaxed under the thatched roof of the open air restaurant of our Hotel, Santa Cruz which was lazy but much appreciated.  Renting bikes was a must, and made me feel like a kid again as we cruised along the winding roads with volcanos on the horizons in either direction.  “Picinas de las Ojas” was a half hour bike ride that brought us to a luxurious spot in nature where refreshing pools and fresh coconuts made our afternoon completely enjoyable. Our last night was cloudy but we were offered an unbeatable view of one of the two monstrous volcanoes on the island. 

I wish I could say that we did a lot more in the way of activities while there but truth be told we were as lazy as a pair of sloths on a Sunday afternoon, and we had a few Sunday afternoons on that island.

Granada: A Hit and Run

I wish I had seen and done more in Grenada then ended up happening.  Granada is quite a beautiful and quaint colonial city that I found to be more aesthetically pleasing than that of Leon or Antigua (ha you all know how I feel about Antigua). Granada has a busy central park area that I was quite drawn to on our first afternoon in the city. Regan was catching up on much needed hours of sleep and I was itching to move around after the bus ride so I sauntered into town when Regan’s siesta began.  There are some local artisan markets located on the edges of the park and all around it, food and drink stands occupy the outline of the park, making it the afternoon local social mecca of Granada. I bought myself an old school glass bottle of orange Fanta and found myself a park bench from which to people watch and catch up on my journal. 

I didn’t have my journal open more than a minute before I noticed an old man on my right walking his bike right past my bench.  He smiled kindly and said ‘hola’ and I returned the gesture with the same kind of smile.  Before I knew it, we were in the midst of a long conversation, one I didn’t expect to end anytime soon but that was okay. In fact it was great and refreshing to finally just meet someone and have the type of Spanish conversation I had been dying to have for a long time.  His name was Guillermo and he was a genuine, kind old Nica man that sat down on my bench and brightened my whole afternoon with simple conversation and laughter that could be considered contagious. We talked and talked, and in moments sometimes we just people watched and observed out loud our thoughts, he was comical and I valued the slight differences in his understanding of life.  Some people will come in and out of your life on the most unexpected days and make a lasting impression on you that you could never forget. This was the old man Guillermo to me on that lazy Saturday afternoon.

On the day that Regan made her journey to the Tree House Hostel, I stayed at the Bearded Monkey and had a business day.  I washed my clothes, did a little food shopping, made some calls to corporate enterprises in the states via Nicaraguan Skype (terrible experience) and received a whole bunch of new movies from my friends in the hostel doing exactly the same things.  I caught up with her there the next day, but its always nice to reset yourself for a day while on the open road.

Narrator switch- it's Regan now. While Katie had her business day in Granada (a city I found quite charming but overall a bit tourist-meets-university style) I headed off for the Treehouse Hostel, just outside the city. True to its word, the main building is indeed a treehouse, complete with rope bridges and connecting platforms. It was a pretty laid back place, with most of us choosing to read or chat during the day. Night time was a pretty different story, however. We gathered for an incredible sunset, and then the fun began! 

After a family dinner with some of the best homemade bread I've ever tasted, the drinking began with a medley of games, including a race to see who had the fastest time through the obstacle course. You start by taking a shot, chugging a beer, running up the stairs to the upper floor- dodging chairs, a table, and cats- and then sliding down a fire pole and darting to tag the bar again. Given my history of being utterly and completely accident prone, I sat that one out. 

Next came the cicadas. This place is literally abuzz with these flying monstrosities. During the day the level is at a dull roar, but at night the sound is deafening, and their attraction to the lights is absolutely moronic. Being the size of cockroaches, these things are more like kamikazes than bugs as they dive bomb around the open-air hostel. One of the cats, aptly named Lunchbox, catches and eats these things at an appalling pace; I'd say it averages 2 cicadas per minute. We chose to follow suit, except we de-winged (not a word? It is now) ours and fried them in garlic butter. Garlic, as we all know, makes everything delicious. Cicadas are no exception. 

The night ended with ceiling footprints. Yes, ceiling footprints. The ceiling over the bar is covered with footprints and signed names, usually accompanied by a year and/or country. Getting up there is your own challenge. I opted for the easy way out and had two guys lift me while a third person used my painted foot as a stamp and guided me to an open spot. A few of my fellow hostel-goers were more creative, doing handstands or wild swings from the fire pole. Some of these feats ended well. Others... well, at least they were most likely beyond pain at that point. 

Katie joined the next day, and was greeted by a far more subdued hostel than I had walked into. A chill day in the woods, with a short trip to the beach, was followed by an equally low-key movie night. While we enjoyed the relaxation and isolation of the Treehouse, we made moves to head out the following day. 

Life in Leon Part II aka The Epitome of Chill

Hey mates, Regan here! As we've been running a bit behind, let me give you a sense of the time period we're writing about (yeah, yeah we know, shame on us for being terrible blog-keepers. We're trying!) My part of the story starts on January 1st in Leon and ends with our departure to Granada on February 6th.   

So we had an epic time in the city of Leon, but felt we needed a bit of beach and chill time. Enter the Surfing Turtle Lodge, an eco-friendly hostel outside of Leon that also serves as a turtle hatchery and rescue center. Along with our little brother Ieuan, as well as a friend we made who works at Bigfoot Hostel named Tim, and a new Aussie friend named Amer, we headed out for a night at the beach. After a seriously cramped cab ride to Poneloya, we crossed low-tide to the island (shuffling our feet to deter sting rays... they like to hang out at the bottom and do NOT appreciate being trodden on) and then hiked the 20 minutes to the beautifully secluded lodge. We spent a day just reading at the beach and making friends with the girls who worked there. As the only current guests, we had the place to ourselves! The beach was empty, and we spent the day drinking cocktails, swimming, and watching the boys go for a sunset surf. The night was filled with dancing and an awesome poi fire show by Tim. 

For those of you unfamiliar with poi, check out some YouTube clips- serious talent involved in this. We first saw it in Thailand, and have seen a few people with amazing skills along this trip. Tim started with fire poi with a set borrowed from the locals, and then switched to a colorful electric set he had brought, which allowed us the chance to try it safely (although I still managed to bruise my shin pretty well. No one was surprised). It allowed us to gain some serious appreciation as to how these people avoid lighting their own hair on fire. 

We returned to Leon on Friday and were treated to a night out by Breno, a Brazilian working at Bigfoot. He loaded the hostel truck up with a bunch of us and took us to a great bar/restaurant, whose name I can't remember for the life of me. They were having an open mic night, and we heard some serious talent, including the owner of the restaurant, who treated us to a few songs in a truly beautiful singing voice. I learned to salsa a bit (read: followed Breno's lead and tried not to step on his feet) and Katie and I both had an awesome time. We loaded up the crew again and made for Camaleon, a cheekily named nightclub (check the translation, note the double meaning, and have a little chuckle) that ends up being the favorite late-night party spot. Dancing, tequila shots, repeat. 

The following day, hurting a little bit, Katie and I dragged ourselves out of bed (bit of a struggle... we ain't as young as we used to be!) and made moves to go to Rancho Tranquilo, run by Tina the Gringo, who hails from the US of A and has relocated in Nicaragua to run a pretty chill hostel near the beaches of Jiquilillo. Getting there was quite an adventure, involving a serious trip on the aforementioned Chicken Buses. We hopped a taxi to Chinandega and snagged a bus just as it was leaving. Another way to word this is- we were smushed into a bus that was at least 20 people over capacity and had all its fire exits welded shut.

 Nearly 4 hours later, we had finally made it to what was by far the most off-the-grid and secluded hostel we'd been to so far. No Internet, no TV, no local bars, just us and Crazy Tina for company. We didn't even know who'd won the Superbowl until two days later when we returned to Leon! Most of our days there were started with morning runs in the surf line and then spent reading on the beach, soaking up the sun and utterly oblivous to time and the real world. I cruised through five books in a few days, leading one of the hostel's housekeepers to declare "I'm very surprised that you don't have a bigger head, because you must have a big brain".  Not sure if offended...? 

We stayed in blissful isolation until Tuesday morning, when we headed back to Leon, choosing an alternate route that did not involve aggressive jostling for standing room on an overcrowded bus. After a memorable last night in Leon, we hit the road again, bound for Granada. 

Life in Leon Part 1

Regan and I left El Tunco early in the A.M. and still under the influence. I revived myself with a much needed detox smoothie and fortunately my travel buds allowed me to take shot-gun in our mini-van for the 10 hour ride.  At this point in time, Regan and I were on the road with our friend Ieuan (pronounced Yayan) from Whales and he soon gained the nickname of "little brother" for all his "brother-like" tendencies, both good and...yeah.

It was easy enough to get out of El Salvador; paved windy roads brought us along the coast and eventually navigated inward towards the boarder of Honduras.  The beneficial thing about this particular bus was that 1) it had Wifi so it was a good time for business if you had a laptop or iphone 2) AC = AWESOME and 3) the driver of the van took care of everyone's boarder crossings meaning, we just handed him our passports and boarder fees and chilled in the van while he sorted everything out.  The bus fare for this trip is slightly more expensive for this reason, but it is easier for him and easier for us as boarder crossings can be spread out and confusing for non-native Spanish speakers now and again.

10 hours later, we were parked outside Bigfoot Hostel in Leon, and man were we stoked to check in and get a drink at the hostel bar!  After a late order for pizza and a few brews, the day of traveling, and a hangover that sent me back to my college days, it was official that the day had kicked our ass and so we hit the hay and slept like babies. 

The next week was culture and Mayhem, all rolled up into this detailed summary of events:

Sunday- Cock Fights: For $12USD, you get round trip transport, open-bar and a tutorial from the guide on Nicaraguan cock fighting.  Now, I know some of you readers are not in support of seeing this, totally cool.  I went back and forth morally about this and I still do, however for me it was a different way to see a part of Nica culture and gave me a more well-rounded view of local life down here.  I also believed that judging this without having a better understanding of it would not be cool for me personally so I made moves to educate myself. Overall, I'm glad I learned about it, there's a lot more behind this than people know.

Monday- Kind of a chill day in Leon for us.  Our buddy Ieuan took us around Leon, giving us the tourist tour of the city ("this bar is good" or "best street food is right here" etc.).  We did some errands and shopped, and after building up a sweat - this city gets HOTT - went for an ice cream and played a little air-hockey where I proceeded to kick everyones ass. Thanks dad- for making me such a good air-hockey player.

Tuesday- Volcano Boarding.  I'm Sorry, I meant VOLCANO BOARDING!! What an epic day! While all you kids where chillin' out in the snow (no pun intended) we were getting our sweat on hiking up the active volcano known as Cerro Negro, where some people have hit speeds of up to 90km/hr. LOCO! *** If you go, I would suggest acquiring a bandana you can rip in two, and tie the ankles of your suit tight to you, so that your legs don't get torn up by the volcanic rocks.  Bigfoot hostel ends your tour with beer, cookies and mojitos :) What could be better?!

Wednesday- Leon does it big for 'El Classico' the annual match(es) between FC Barcelona and Real Madrid. We got some drinks in and watched the game at a popular sports bar with a massive projector screen and plenty of crazy locals in support of both sides.  1-1 result and an afternoon followed by more drinks... :)

Oh Leon, layin' it on us every day and night. Regan will let you in on the rest of our crazy week.

El Tunco Part 2: Tunco Tips and Blips

Hola, Smitty here! Sometimes I think its a little hard to say exactly what you want to say when you find yourself in a place that speaks to you without needing to say anything at all.  El Tunco is a place that shifts in shape, and if you will it, it can be exactly what you need it to be for you in that moment. Regan got a little unlucky in her time there (she is without question a tough chica) but I think she would tell you that without an injury, Tunco is a sound spot to post up and enjoy yourself.

That said, WHAT A WICKED WEEK!

As a beach girl by nature, I was pretty hooked right away.  Getting away from Antigua's city life and getting back to living in board-shorts and beach dresses was essential to my well-being. 

The Beach: They call it 'El Tunco' because the rocks right off shore supposedly look like a gigantic roast pig (the Spanish translation). A few highlights of this particular beach are as follows:
1- No sand flies! that's right people - you can cruise around this beach at sunset and all through the night without getting eaten up and looking like a chicken-pox victim the next day. I wont say mosquitos are completely non existent, but its way better here then most other beaches we've been to.
2- Black volcanic Sand: its pretty lovely stuff, soft and pretty and different, but CUIDADO (careful!) because by 11am - that stuff is en FUEGO (fire) and without sandals, tramping around can prove deadly.
3- Surfing: while Regan and I aren't exactly seasoned surfers, (okay we pretty much suck) renting a board is pretty cheap down this way. $5USD for a 1/2 day and $10 for an hour lesson + and hour after to mess around and test your skillz. WORD!  Also, for the more experienced wave rider, Tunco has a beautiful point break known as Sunzal which gets pretty nice sized waves with a channel to the left making for a white-wash free paddle out.  Enjoy a sunset out there on the water and remind yourself where you are, I guarantee you won't forget it.

ON LEAVING: During the high season, it is very easy to get to El Tunco, but we found it pretty tricky when it came to leaving. Buses OUT of El Tunco book up very fast and only run 4 days a week so make sure if you're on a tight schedule, that you look into out-going buses early on in your stay.  We paid $50 USD to go from there to Leon, Nicaragua and booked our bus 5 days in advance.

Like Regan said, El Tunco is pretty small; 2 main streets are what make up this fun little beach scene. That being said, while I know some people who have gotten stuck there for months at a time, I personally LOVED it as a vacation location, and would go back many times over on somewhat shorter trips. It was a great place to re-connect with people from earlier on in our trip, (since it's such a popular destination within El Salvador) as well as meet a whole slew of crazy new characters we now call amigos.

Enjoy El Tunco! Ladies; VIVA ladies night and fellas, VIVA ladies night too.  Go to Take-a-Wok and get the best Asian stir-fry, rent a board and catch some waves, take a late night skinny dip with your silly friends, and get a ginger shot at the smoothie bar when the hangover kicks in!

Tunco Part I (or- "Why Shoes are Awesome")

So after our exhausting/exhilarating/epic time in San Pedro, Katie and I decided it was high time we got back to the coast. We hitched a shuttle back to Antigua, and spent two "business days" (aka she hunted for necessities like a camera charger, while I was laid up with food poisoning) before grabbing a bus to El Tunco, a beach in El Salvador. We got a bunk at a hostel called Papaya, and immediately fell in love with Tunco.

El Tunco is a little surf town with two main roads, a few clubs, a long stretch of beach, and not much else. The closest main town is La Libertad, which is a 30 minute ride by "chicken bus". We haven't quite decided why they're referred to as "chicken buses"... perhaps because they cram you in there like chickens in a truck? Or it may be the fact that it wouldn't be entirely surprising to find someone transporting a chicken or two with them. Either way, these buses are retired (read: didn't pass inspection) school buses from the US that have been painted ridiculous colors and utilized as a form of hectic public transport here. All in all they're fairly cheap and efficient, if ridiculously crowded, loud, and unpredictable.

Anyway, our second night there a few of us decided to cook a family style meal at Papaya. Into the chicken bus we piled, and proceeded to hang on for dear life as we cruised into Libertad. We opted to hitchhike  in the back of a pickup truck on the way home, just to round out the experience. Two hours later, about ten of us were dining on veggie pasta, garlic bread, ginger stir fry, and more than a few bottles of wine. Dinners like those are definitely our favorite parts of hostel living!

A few hours after dinner everyone had moved onto a club called La Bocana, right on the beach. It was an equal mix of travelors and locals, and the place was packed. Everyone was dancing away to local pop music (with Gangnam Style thrown in for good measure), and overall having a great night. And then I decided to stomp on a broken bottle. Barefoot.

[SIDE NOTE: As a rule, we never go barefoot unless we're at the actual beach. We see it all the time, even in cities like Antigua, and think it's idiotic and unhygienic how many of our fellow travelers refuse to wear shoes, even in restaurants or grocery stores. Sorry if that offends anyone, but this is our blog so... we win.]

The events of this fateful Friday just added to reinforce that belief. I broke my own personal rule and kicked off the Havianas I kept tripping over as I made a pathetic attempt to salsa with a local on the dance-floor. Everyone else was doing it, why not me? Less than 30 seconds later I was sitting on the side of the club holding a sliced right foot and apologizing to the security guard (who was incredibly sweet and helpful) for bleeding all over his bar. Once I got over the shock of what I had just done- okay and stopped crying, I admit it- I hobbled my sorry butt back to our hostel, where luckily two of our friends were hanging out in the kitchen. Tanis helped me clean and bandage my foot while Greg ("because I have no idea what else to do") made us some epic grilled peanut butter and honey sandwiches.

Unfortunately, this was probably my most memorable event of Tunco. Don't get me wrong, I had a great time (as you'll soon read from Katie's post) trying to surf and meeting some truly amazing people. However, the memories of Kings Cup games with 15 people from 7+ countries (be a gecko!), gorgeous sunsets, and beach bonfires are sadly mixed in with memories of supergluing my wound shut, walking like a Crip, and changing the bandages and athletic tape 2-3x a day to keep the dirt and sand out. Summary of this post: Tunco is incredible, but keep your shoes on!

Livin la Vida at Lake Atitlan!

Hola -Smitty here, keeping things rollin' on...
We took a full day to recover after our New Years Eve night, it was necessary and we spent the day lounging around on bean bags and watching Guatemalan pirated DVD's at the hostel. I think I made a run to subway later that day too- the Italian BMT sub is Hangover Heaven!

The following day, we left with a friend and took a 2+ hour bus ride to Lake Atitlan.  Our shuttle took us on a winding road to the town of Panajachel, and from there we went to the docks and caught a water taxi across the lake to the town of San Pedro.  While en-route, I had the luxury of becoming a human shield for Caitlin and Al so that they would not get splashed on. (This was NOT a voluntary move and I was not pleased about coming out of the boat looking like a wet dog). 

When we got there, we followed our amigo who had been to San Pedro before, and wound up at a place called Café Atitlan.  I had a great first night out flying solo as my companions were dead tired and total party poopers. We moved the next day to another spot called Mr. Mullet's Hostel which became our home away from home.  For only 30Q/night (that's $3.70 USD!) we had a 4 person dorm, free Wifi, HOT SHOWERS (yes - few and far between) brand new mattress that allowed me to sleep like a baby, Kitchen, etc.  More then all the fabulous amenities,  what won me over was the atmosphere and the overall friendliness of the staff. The owner Tim aka Mr. Mullet himself, is a very chill guy and has put together a solid place for the weary traveler to rest his or her head. I highly recommend anyone passing through San Pedro to stay at Mullets- its cheap, its cozy, and its a real, real good time.

While we were in San Pedro we had a little fun and brightened our horizons with an array of new activities. We kayaked around the lake, we did an afternoon of horseback riding, explored the local market (where you can stuff yourself for less than $1 US dollar full of delicious local dishes) and we even attended a roaring local Basketball match, where some quetzals were thrown down for bets on the winner of the game.

One of the best things about San Pedro however, is the American Style BBQ that takes place at Deep End Bar & Pool every Sunday afternoon. You can get anything from beef or pork ribs, to burgers, rump steaks, even bacon wrapped fillet minion (and one plate can easily feed two people) They also do 5Q tequila shots on the hour, every hour [interjection from Caitlin: our group of friends teamed up with one goal in mind: DO NOT LET KATIE DISCOVER ITS THE FIRST FIVE MINUTES OF AN HOUR. She had the habit of showing up with a tray with 15 or more shots, and just scanning like a deadly eagle, looking for some poor person to hand a tequila shot to. Even more than she loves tequila, Katie loves making people do tequila shots with her. Especially once she finds out you loathe tequila]. Sunday, fun-day amigos!

I can honestly say that I had TOO much fun here, and eventually, to save myself from mortal peril due to excess enjoyment of life itself, we had to make moves to keep keeping on.

Author switch! So I agree with everything Katie said. San Pedro is an amazing place, probably the stop on our journey where I've felt most at home. There's a ton to do- kayaking, jumping off the "trampoline" at San Marcos, trivia night at El Barrio, impromptu Aussie weddings at Buddha Bar, horseback riding, poolside lounging, and heaps more. And yes, we did do ALL of the aforementioned activities. Our team did abysmally at trivia, I remembered my love-hate relationship with horses, and was a proud bridesmaid in the wedding of Brent and Taighen (our favorite Aussie couple, whom we first met in Lanquin. Fun fact- Brent is responsible for my "Reggie" nickname). Not sure if it'll hold up to Australian law, but it was good enough for all of us!

I also strongly agree with Katie's last statement- San Pedro will eat you alive if you aren't careful. From the deadly happy hour at Zoola hostel (free shot with every drink from 4-11pm), to the late night partying at Buddha bar, to the even LATER night after-party at Psy-House (an uninhabited house that turns into an unlicensed bar and trance club once everything else shuts down) it's easy to let itineraries, goals, and life in general slip away as you fall into a comfortable rhythm with great people. We planned on being there for a few days, and all of a sudden ten had flown by! I fully plan on returning to the Lake for the last portion of my trip, and can't wait to reunite with some truly epic individuals.

Bienvenidos 2013 - Antigua

Picture this- you're riding in a minibus, packed with people from all over the globe trying to speak to one another in 3 different languages; English, Spanish, and Italian. It's loud, it's cramped, you have a hangover that rivals your prime college days, the ride ahead of you is 6 hours too long, and your best friend is possibly in an even WORSE condition than you. This was our ride to Antigua.

Caitlin and I were MORE than ready to exit our minibus when we got to the city of Antigua; we clearly had a great last night in Lanquin, and we arrived at our new destination with thoughts of making the new year even better but first a minor recovery was in order.

We took the advice of a friend we had met on the road and tried our luck at hostel called Dionisio but that may have been the worst decision thus far in our trip... we shall leave the friend unnamed for that reason alone. Lets just say that being woken up at 6am with firecrackers literally outside your dorm door and being torn up by bed bugs was not our idea of a pleasant time so we nixed that place as soon as the morning came.

We moved to a wicked fun place called Jungle Party Hostel and from the second we walked in the front gate we knew we were going to have a good time.  We stayed up in the loft (if your over 5ft tall, watch your head on the rafters!!) and had good mattresses and large lockers to store our gear.  They also include breakfast in their price per night which is awesome. The first few nights were hazy fun and we hadn't even celebrated the new year yet. ohhh boy....

Truthfully for me, Antigua was more of a miss than a hit, if you're into city slickin' it may just be the place for you. Good food, good nightlife, and large markets draw tourists to this destination but if your a beach bum like me, you'll find a way out fast! Caitlin will fill you in on our NYE night though, GOOD TIMES!

So I liked Antigua a bit more than Katie did- I really enjoyed wandering around the town with our friend Mike and exchanging info about the city and Fact-of-the-Day-type knowledge (yeah I know, nerd alert). It's a beautiful city with amazing architecture and great shopping, especially if you know where to look (thanks, Julie!).

The day of NYE we started noticing a lot- and I mean a LOT- of feminine clothing, mostly saucy silk bathrobes and corsets, floating around Jungle Party. Turns out, everyone got free beer that night if the boys dressed in drag. As for the girls, well we just had to wear these gold halos, like the angels we are! Stop rolling your eyes. I'm serious. Katie, myself, and Juliette (one of the Rebel Gypsies from Mirador, you reunite with everyone on the Gringo Trail)  got a group of Aussie guys dressed up reaaal pretty, donned our halos, and started the party.

A bit of an aside: have we mentioned that the people of Central America love their fireworks? Cause they f****** love their fireworks. They set them off at 8pm, 7am, or mid-afternoon. They shout "cuidado!" (careful!) and then throw fireworks AT you. Yes, it's about as funny as it sounds. For a brief moment on Christmas, I thought there was a revolution in progress. That was a huge part of New Years- watching, hearing, and dodging fireworks.

We spent midnight with Juliette at the park watching- you guessed it!- fireworks and exchanging kisses and wishes. After that we went to a local club and reunited with some friends from Jungle, who had ditched the drag queen look (mostly) and were ready to party. The rest, as they say, is hazy. I mean history. The rest, is history. It was a helluva way to kick off 2013- may we all be as blessed in this year as we were in 2012!

Lanquin and Semuc Champey

Alright so after dealing witht two bouts of food poisoning, a sliced open foot, severe chest cold, and bed bugs (ALL in the last two weeks), I've concluded that either I've reaaaaally pissed someone off in the karma system, or I'm being punished for ignoring this blog for so long. My theory is that if I do 1.6 million random acts of kindness, and update this thing, I should be alright.

So Katie provided an epic account of Mirador- truly a life-changing experience. We continue to run into some of the friends we've made there along this Gringo Trail we're traveling, and we couldn't be happier about it! Seeing as how we've been absolutely terrible at updating this blog, we'll work to take you guys up to date bit-by-bit, since no one wants to read a 20-paragraph blog entry.

Once we returned to Flores from Mirador, Katie, Sofia, and I booked a bus to Lanquín, to check out the glorious pools of Semuc Champey. We landed at the Zephyr Lodge, a beautiful spot with sweeping views of the valley and crystal river below. In fact, we spent Christmas Day tubing down that very river with a crew from Zephyr and a bag of beers (props to Brenda the beer wench, nicely done!). Christmas night consisted of an awesome party, complete with tequila shots and one very epic speech by Dieter (a Guatemalan who was taught to drink by Irish guys... this man is a legend).

We took a day off to recover, and then all hopped in the back of a pickup truck and arrived at Semuc Champey after a very bumpy 20 minute ride. The day was pretty action-packed; first we explored a water-filled cave using only candles (easier than you might think... definitely a unique experience). After that it was time for the infamous rope swing. Everyone we'd talked to said they got absolutely WRECKED on this thing, but we all did pretty well. Except for that one girl... but I'm sure she's recovered by now. Because we hadn't had enough action yet, we decided to jump off the 30 foot bridge on our way to the park.

Hiking around the park was awesome, with the gorgeous views being well-worth the climb. Semuc Champey's main attraction is a series of crystal blue pools formed by the Cahabón River. They're stepped, so water flows down from one to another, and there are endless possibilities for jumping and climbing. After we'd exhausted all our energy, it was time to clamber back into the pickup and force our jello-like limbs to cling on for the jolting ride home. 

We spent another day at Zephyr enjoying the views and meeting some fantastic, Jager-loving Aussies who promptly awarded me the nickname of Reginald, or Reggie for short. I've been going by Regan down here, since the whole "Cait and Katie" thing seemed to be confusing for people, and we were both sick of responding only to find that it was the other Caitlin/Katelyn being summoned. Anyway, after our fun-filled stay at Zephyr, it was time to head to Antigua to kick off the New Year! 

The Trek to Mirador

Aloha Amigos! Katie here- we are alive and well after spending the turn of a new era at the ancient Mayan City of El Mirador! We have been cruising around the beautiful country of Guatemala ever since and we've made a truly great start to 2013!

El Mirador: I will start from the start: (as that is usually a good place to do so)
On our first day, we woke up early -gear packed, and said goodbye to our friend and hostel liason Francisco. We made our way onto a chicken bus designated for our trip and left our big packs behind - taking only a few days worth of gear with us. Making new seat-mates and friends right away was made possible by our over-excitement as well as the lack of space on the bus. Right away we met the infamous "Party Mike" of San Diego (who dresses like Aladin, and parties like Jim Morrison), as well as the lovely Debrow Brothers and tricksters from the Midwest. Caitlin happpend to sit down next to a guy who looked like he had just seen a ghost, or eaten a bad bowl of chili, and I must admit I was a bit worried about the sensitivity of his upchuck reflex.  (We later recommended him to the smaller van and he -Josh- ended up making a speedy full recovery. What a trooper!)

The ride out took us from Flores to Carmelita, and was a bumpy 2 1/2 hours of our lives. Upon crossing into protected Mayan lands, we were met with strange glances, and local boarder gaurds were taking photos of us, as they had never before seen such a large group at one time enter through the gates.  When we rocked up to Carmelita, we were all given breakfast of coffee, beans, eggs, and tortillas and after organized our gear onto the mules with the help of the locals.  Some time passed before our group of 45 was summoned into a large circle where we had a ceremony where a Mayan time keeper by the name of Tatajuan, blessed our journey into the jungle.

And then we were off!  The group quickly broke up into fast, medium and slow, and Regan and I became part of the leading pack.  We had gotten a late start on day 1, which was filled with excitement and conversations of everyone getting to know each other.  We ended our hike in the dark, and some frustration mounted as we continued to wait at the campsite at Tintal, for our gear and tents that we had packed on the slow moving mules.  Dinner, drinks, and smokes were shared and soon enough we were crashed out in our 2 man tent.

The second morning was a decently early start, and a healing circle with the notorious Doctor "Gato" was formed by people in our group (myself included) who wanted to continue the positive flow of energy on the second morning. Good vibes kids.

Onward through the forest we went, and because of our morning promptness, we arrived at our campsite by midafternoon with plenty of sunlight left! Again, waiting for the mules was a necessary evil and so a small fellowship was formed and moves were made to catch the sunset on one of El Mirador's half unearthed pyramids known as El Tigre. The sunset was beautiful and as we climbed down we came upon the start of a Mayan ceremony in which chanting, fire spinning (not to be confused with fire dancing) and the burning of offerings to Mayan gods took place.

That night we bonded with our group, drinking and hanging out around the campsite and went to bed in pretty great moods.

The following morning was early, and full of walking around the different sites at El Mirador with the help of our local guides, Juan Pablo and Alex. I wish I had counted the number of stairs we climbed, honestly it was daunting. My favorite site was La Danta, a complex temple that supersedes most other pyramids in the world in both mass and volume. You can see the surrounding unearthed Mayan cities as well as how far you trekked and the vastness of it all is simply unreal.

Back to El Tigre for a Sunset ceremony with our 3rd guide Jen, and this was the moment that I was truly moved by my experience at El Mirador. It hit me like a rogue wave and I was aware of myself and everything I felt in that moment. It was wicked and something I wont ever forget.

Meeting a group of "rebel gypsies" that hiked in without a guide (which is almost impossible to do) made our last day/night tons of fun, and left a good taste in our mouths - minus the fact that we needed to hike all the way back, a wopping 55 kilometers. Not much to say in this regard, we were ready for a swift return to a more thriving civilization and had fresh beers waiting for us after the first days trek back. LOVELY how a cold, shitty beer can taste so good after a long day of huffing it through the jungle.

Finally, we made it to Carmelita and then back to Flores and our time being sweaty and dirty chicas was over. It felt nice to shower and put on a dress, but it felt even better knowing what had just accomplished and seen.

On to Guatemala!

The day after ATM a group of us decided to explore the surrounding area in search of come cliff-jumping that we'd heard of. We set off with the intention of taking a bus to the next town, but somehow ended up renting 2 canoes off a local man and the six of us, along with a couple bottles of rum, ventured upstream. It didn't take long for chaos to ensue- flipped canoes, surprise rapids, war wounds. All in all one of the funniest days so far this trip.

On Friday, Katie, myself, and our friend Mark packed up our stuff and headed to Xunantunich to check out our first Mayan ruin site. A word to the wise- if an old man named Star (who smokes way too much pot, and talks like Cookie Monster) assures you that you can find a safe spot at a hotel to store your gear while you hike Xunantunich... don't listen to him. Luckily a nice bartender we spoke to named Ismenia agreed to put our stuff behind the bar while we adventured. Overall it was an epic experience. Looking at this towering ruins and realizing that the ancient Mayans shaped and placed each stone by hand is just mind-blowing. It was great that we were allowed to climb up to the top, and have this incredible view of Belize and Guatemala.

After that began a trip into Guatemala that can be described as nothing short of disaster. Crossing the border on foot was a piece of cake- however, if you are a "gringo" and you are driving a car across, be prepared to stop for a couple of hours while your car is thoroughly searched. Once across the border, Katie and I ignored the the slew of taxi drivers following us who assured us the last bus had departed for the evening, and that the colectivo was a 2km walk away. Rule #17- never trust a taxi driver.

The bus ride itself was uneventful, aside from the two stops during which soldiers with AKs boarded the bus and searched the compartments. Unsettling, to say the least. Overall, we made it to Flores safe and sound and met up with our friends from San Ignacio (minus Mark, plus a new friend named Sofia) and the six of us have been exploring the town and drinking beers on the docks by the lake. Pretty rough life, eh?

Final note: this may be the last post before THE END OF THE WORLD! No one down here actually believe this- from what we can gather, it's seen as a new beginning, focusing more on the start of a new calendar than the end of the old one. However, that hasn't stopped people all over from organizing End of the World parties, and many tours are offering special deals to the ruins. At least four of us plan to spend The End at El Mirador, an ancient Mayan site way up in the jungles of northern Guatemala. It will be a 5-day trek, with us reaching El Mirador on the 21st. It's one of the harder journeys you can take, and we're all pretty stoked about it. Expect a lengthy blog entry about our journey when we get back! That is, if the aliens don't get us.

Much love,
Regan and Smitty

Actun Tunichil Muknal

Actun Tunichil Muknal ("Cave of the Crystal Sepulchre"), abbreviated ATM, refers to an expansive network of caves outside San Ignacio in the Cayo District of Belize. Inside it are immaculately preserved Mayan artifacts and human sacrifices. The ancient Maya believed caves to be a passageway connecting them to Xibalba, or the underworld. Offerings of food, water, and sometimes humans were brought deep inside the caves, and used in elaborate rituals- some asking for better crops or rain, others for guidance in matters of war. As the Maya civilization began to decline, the offerings became more and more frequent.

The tour we booked through Mayawalk allowed us the opportunity to see these ruins and experience the history up close and personal. Our guide's name was Aaron Juan, and he has been running these tours for about 15 years now. Before tours were offered to the public, he worked closely with archaeologists studying the caves, and knows ATM inside and out. He is hands down the most experienced and most thorough guide in all of San Ignacio. During the drive to the site and the hour-long hike to the cave, Aaron was full of stories, Mayan history, and jokes. He pointed out various plants that have practical uses in the jungle, and got us all psyched for the cave itself.

We reached the opening to ATM, and after a quick dip in the pools outside the mouth of the cave and some lunch, our crew was ready to head inside. Overall it was an eerie feeling; I'd never been deep inside a cave system before, and therefore had never experienced such a profound and total darkness. Our headlamps did little to mitigate the blackness that enveloped us, and many times Aaron had us stop and switch off our lamps, holding hands as he told us a story or simply had us imagine what it would have been like a thousand years ago, being guided by torches instead of headlamps. The other groups rushed through the tours, so many were heading out as we were heading in, resulting in the 8 of us being the only people in the entire cave network for a majority of the adventure.

I'll let Katie tell you the specifics of what we saw, but overall it was an epic experience. I can't deny a feeling of unease that I carried with me throughout the journey until we reached daylight again. The relief I felt at emerging back out in the jungle sun was more profound than I'd expected. Maybe it was being engulged in complete darkness, or imagining what the ancient Maya felt and saw as they journeyed to Xibalba. Aaron told us at the beginning that Actun Tunich Muknal effects everyone differently, and for me it was definitly an adventure I'll never forget.

When you first set your eyes on the entrance of the cave, it just might take your breath away. Like something out of the jungle book, the tall stone mouth of Xibalba is surrounded by lush green plants and from the mouth a deep stream flows down into a series of refreshing pools which we happily took a dip in before gearing up with helmets and headlamps and heading in.  

We swam into the mouth of the cave like a line of little ducklings following one another and soon found ourselves in another world.  The first cavern makes you realize just how small you are, and suddenly you sense the foreigness of your environment.  As Caitlin said before, the atmosphere of the cave affects each person differently, some feel scared, some sad and so on.  For me, at first I was simply in awe, but the ominous beauty of things creeps over you slowly and for a few moments my heart was beating faster and my mind was racing.  Soon after Aarons introduction, we moved further into the depths and he pointed out a few cave dwelling insects such as cockroaches, spiders (yes, just sitting on rocks and crawling up walls) crickets, and catfish.  We walked through wide shallow passages filled with stelagtites and stelagmites, and maneuvered through small crawl spaces that made you feel like a contortionist.  

Upon arriving at the point within the cave system where we would need to climb up into higher caverns where the offerings and sacrifices were made by the Maya, Aaron told us we had only gone 1/4 of a mile in even though it felt like we were in the belly of the beast.  We helped eachother make the ascent into the dry cave system where we were very careful to stay in line and listen closely to Aarons instruction -well, most of us anyway... ;) we wont name you fellow blogger.  The first things we saw were many offerings, broken pots of all sizes, and stones where fires were made with scorch marks on the cave ceiling.  Calsification has left many artifacts unearthed but also has done a phenomenal job at naturally preserving the skeletons as well. Many skulls were believed to be from royality, and the Mayans would alter the shape of the skull by placing a board on an infants forhead, making it long and flat as the bones fused together.  The teeth on some skulls were also visible, and were shaped into petals .  

The last skeleton was by far the most amazing , and was reffered to as The Crystal Maiden , a fully preserved skeleton body whose sex is still in debate as of today. The body is located at the highest and deepest part of this section, signifying great importance and is believed to be the last human sacrifice made there before collapse.

The overall feeling was unreal, you emerge from the cave back into the jungle feeling relief that the light of day is back in your sights, and a great appreciation for being able to go back in time and actually feel the presence of that era all around you. To ATM and this adventure, I hold great admiration.

Last Days on the Caye

Our last few days on Caye Caulker consisted of blissful days lying on the beach by the Split and enjoying great food with new friends. Katie and I had originally planned to leave the Caye on Monday, but this awesome Aussie couple we met convinced us to stay and relax a bit longer- not that we needed much convincing. By this point we'd met a decent amount of locals that were wicked helpful pointing out hole-in-the-wall eating spots that we never would have discovered on our own. The Kitchen, located a few blocks off the main strip, is a perfect example. The tables are located two flights up on a deck, with a great view of the island, an amazing breeze, and even better conch fritters and chicken salbutes!

By Tuesday we were ready to head on to our next destination- San Ignacio, by the Guatemalan border. Some of the coolest Mayan ruins in Belize are located in the area, and that was our main objective for heading there. We hopped on a water taxi to Belize City, where we met an American guy named Mark- he and Katie bonded over their epic amount of bugbites. My theory is that if I keep hanging out with these two I will NEVER be bitten. I have perhaps 10 bites total compared to their 100+ apiece. Mark didn't have a destination so he decided to join us, and me and the two insect-magnets hopped in a cab and headed to to San Ignacio, with a quick detour at the Belize Zoo.

We arrived in San Ignacio, tossed our stuff down, and set off to book a tour of the ATM caves (Actun Tunichil Muknal) about an hour outside the city. Once that was accomplished, we settled in to have some beers and dinner, and hit the hay early in preparation for our tour the next day!

Raggamuffin Love

While Regan and I had a fun night out at I & I and Oceanside Bar the night  before, nothing could keep us from being stoked about our snorkel trip the following morning (Not even the Rum!)  We had asked people we met over the previous days about the different tours out here and every time we were recommended to the same tour company- Raggamuffins :) 
Located right on the Main Strip, Raggamuffins has a little booking spot right next to the beach on the right as you're walking towards the Split.  They offer half day and full day tours of all different kinds but Cait and I did the full day snorkel tour.  For $140 BZE, your trip includes 3 awesome snorkel destinations (45 minutes each), fresh lunch of your choice, good quality equipment, a very cool laid back and knowledgeable crew, a never-ending refill of rum punch (trust me, its unlikely that you will hear anyone say "why's the rum gone?"), beautiful scenery, and MOST importantly...An amazing experience with tons to see!!!

Our first stop was the Coral Gardens, where we saw tropical fish of every variety and plenty of beautiful corals. Our first mate Shane jumped in the water with us, and while you had the option to self guide, he was happy to point everything he saw out to you and share his ocean wisdom.

Stop # 2 was called Shark and Stingray Alley and you might be able to guess what we saw here.  They chum up the water to get the Nurse Sharks and the Stingrays close to the boat and we scooted right in for an up close and personal interaction with these amazing animals.  Shane jumped back into the water and with his understanding of what calms the sharks, he was able to hold one very lightly in the water so that we could see what they're really all about.  For Caitlin and I (who both have seen Jaws at a very young age) this felt like the first baby-step towards changing our initial outlook on these docile and mellow dudes.  The Stingrays were also an outstanding sight, I have always been a big fan as I love the way they just glide through the water and always look like they're smiling.

Our final stop was Hol Chan Reef where Shane and our Captain Kimani both guided us around in 2 small groups.  We saw even more intricate reef, sea turtles of all ages, and the prettiest of the rays, the eagle ray.

We finally sailed back towards Caye Calker, rum in one hand, fresh ceviche in the other, and island reggae comin through the speakers.  This experience will treat you right, and leave you wanting life to always feel that sweet.

You Better Belize It!

So we touched down in Belize City midday on Thursday. The first thing we did once we cleared customs and got our bags was to find a cab to take us to the docks where the water taxi to Caye Caulker departs from. Pretty much everyone we had talked to told us that the first thing we should do once we got to Belize City, was to bail out of the city and head for the islands. And that was just fine by us!

After roughly an hour's boat ride we landed in paradise, aka Caye Caulker. We dropped our bags off in our small dorm-style room near the beach and went to explore. The main streets run roughly a mile long by 4 blocks wide, and sport mostly bars, restaurants, and little shops and bodegas. The island itself is approximately 5 miles long and less than a mile wide. A lot of the locals we've become friends with are originally from Belize City, and came here to escape the violence and crime of the city, and just "Go Slow", which is the motto of the island. There are no cars, only bikes and golf carts. Things move at a leisurely island pace... more than once as I've been walking down the main strip I've heard, "Ay girl where ya gon' so fast now, this is the Caye- go slooow!"

On Friday we decided to move onto a larger, but less expensive room at a guesthouse near the other end of the island. We spent the day near "The Split", a beach-bar area where the island is split in two by a channel about 300 yards wide or so. There's a bar there called the Lazy Lizard, which was appropriately named given that most of us backpackers spent the day sunning ourselves on the concrete piers adjacent to the beach. The water is beautiful- crystal clear with white sands.

Around mid-afternoon we got pretty hungry, and after listening to a few fellow travelers rave about the lobster on the island, and how they've literally eaten it for every meal, we decided that sounded like a pretty solid plan for a late lunch. Not too far from The Split we noticed a sign for Wish Willy  advertising a lobster meal for 18BZ (which is $9 US) with free rum punch drinks while you eat. Not gonna lie, it was the second part that really hooked us in. We wandered over there, and inquired about eating. A few men in the yard doing some work informed us that the restaurant did not open until 6:30 pm that night. As we turned to leave, with the intention of coming back when it was open, a tall local came out of the apartment above the kitchen. It was Maurice, the owner and head chef.

"How can I help you?" he asked us. We mentioned the sign and said we'd been craving lobster and his place looked ideal, and that we could come back later on. Maurice quickly waved us to a table, "For you, I'm open" he said as he sent one of the guys to grab some fresh lobster from the market. He then came over and chatted with us, asking us where we were from and how we liked the island. After a few minutes he disappeared, returning with a pitcher full of rum punch. A local favorite and the most affordable drink around, it's always delicious and refreshing. Shortly after that, he presented us with our late lunch: two lobster tails each, cooked to perfection with local spices. It came with an epic rice side seasoned with ginger, sautéed with carrots, cucumbers, peppers, and onions. It was hands down the best meal we have had so far on our trip, and Maurice was a great host. Definitely check this place out if you ever travel to the Caye!

That night we cruised down to the I & I, a local reggae bar where everyone goes at night. Katie and I ended up having a few "small world" moments. We ran into two other UVM grads with whom we had a ton of mutual friends. I also met a kid named Tyler from Keene, who used to live with a friend of mine. Pretty random, right? We made some new friends as well, and cruised to Oceanside nightclub, the favorite late-night spot of the island. All-in-all a really great first full day on the island! I'll let Katie fill you in on the EPIC snorkel tour we took the next day...

Adios everybody!
Caitlin

We're in Miami Trick!

So if you want a little culture and some crazy friendly people, then Miami is the spot to be. Caitlin and I got in around 10:30 am on Tuesday and were ready to venture out right away.  After being picked up at the airport by a family friend of Caitlin's' we got sorted and made our way straight to Miami Beach boardwalk just scoping out the north side.  After a friendly intro of Miami by  bartender  locals we made moves to South Beach with our host, John, and friend for a dinner on the infamous Lincoln Road, a pedestrian only, shopping and eating Mecca with every style of cooking and every style of people.  After a tasty bite, we broke away from our hosts and continued just us to a street-side Hookah Bar were we met a lovely array of very interesting people.  The beautiful thing about Miami Beach is the fantastic mix of people that constantly surround you.  Caitlin and I both argreed that we would make a solid effort in our bi-lingual efforts after seeing how effortlessly people can speak both English and Spanish there.  Our Hookah experience was fun but put us to rest pretty early (that and the size of their mix drinks was unreal- one glass could tranquilize a small pony) so that was that. 

The next morning we made moves back to the boardwalk and after a quick breakfast smoothy ( half of which Caitlin watered the beach with) we strode along towards south beach.  As we got into the heart of South Beach, we were drawn into a cool local tour that bused through the city and then cruised the harbor and showed us the Mansions of Top A list Celebs like Shakira, Jlo, Ricky Martin, Antonio Banderas, Caitlins Mr. Right George Clooney and my Mr. Right Leoonardo Dicaprio.  Our day shaped up to be a pretty solid one and after bumping around town it was time to call it a day.  Although we didnt rage the club scene, our time in Miami was a solid prologue to our epic adventure.  

Alright, so I honestly did not expect to like Miami. It just never seemed to be my kind of city. However, a few short hours there definitely changed my mind. I love the Spanish-style architecture of Miami City itself, and the unexpected lifestyles-of-the-rich-and-famous aspect that we were informed of during our tour. There's a history to the area that is very different from the New England culture I'm used to. Like Katie said, we were typically addressed in Spanish first, and English second (they probably switched over out of pity after seeing my panicked expression. I understand a solid 75% or so of what I hear, but am still not fluent or confident enough to just roll with it and attempt to respond in Spanish). Our tour guide (yes, we did a tour, and it was awesome) had loads of info to explain the Spanish-style feel of Miami. Allegedly, the founding builder or whatever of the city was in love with a Spanish woman, and wanted to build her a city in tribute that felt like home. So he completes the masterpiece that is Miami, and asks her to marry him. She says something along the lines of, "Aw that's wicked sweet, but I just married someone else..."... BURN. Rough go, my man. 

One stop we made was to a church where apparently if you touch the stones of the church and think of someone, that is the person you will marry. As the driver cautioned, "Good luck, just don't think of your dog!". Also he went on a small rant along the lines of married people only thinking of their spouses or don't bother touching it blah blah blah... seemed like a touchy subject. Who did I think of when I touched the wall? I'll never tell :) 

Little Havana really caught my attention- from the older Cuban men playing chess and dominos in the park to the delicious authentic Cuban pan con bistec at the stand where they filmed a scene from Scarface- it was a great experience. We also saw THE house where they filmed a large part of the movie. Say hello to my little friend! 

We wish we could have spent a little more time in Miami- John (a good friend of my family) was an awesome host, and we really did fall in love with the city. However, the clock caught up with us and before we knew it, it was 4am on Thursday and we were hopping in a cab bound for the airport, and ultimately... BELIZE! Currently we are absolutely lovin' life on Caye Caulker, an island off the coast of Belize. Katie is deep in talk with a German and a Wisconian (Wisconsonite?) and we've got some bars to hit, so this post must reach its conclusion. More to come mañana! Buenos noches! 

Much love, 

Cait and Katie 

Aloha from the Airport

Hey everyone! So we decided to do a joint blog to document this epic adventure we're about to embark on. We figured two heads are better than one, and with the both of us blogging we should (hopefully) be able to crank out some posts fairly often.

For those of you who may not know, the two of us (Katie and Caitlin, just to keep things confusing) are headed down to Central America for a months long backpacking trip. We are starting the trip with two days in Miami, and then we continue on to Belize on Thursday. Right now it's approximately 6:26 am and we haven't slept yet. Well, Katie is currently working to resolve that issue at the terminal gate. She's giving it an A for effort trying to contribute to this post, but it's slightly less than coherent. She claims she can type better than she can talk at this point, so here we go...


*Just to try and keep things a little simpler and easy-to-read, Caitlin Regan will be writing in regular font and Katie Smith will be rockin' the italics*


We're off. Truth be told I could have definitely used one more day to get things together, and sort out life at home, last minute chrismukah gifts, visiting family, self gifts... it all got a little crazy for a minute.  I think at one point my mom and regan were wondering if I was really going to pull it off, and well, we made it to the airport so, so far so good! Everyone who knows me well probably knows that my version of "on time" is about ten minutes late so the last minute run around was very typical Smitty style. 

Ive gotta say right now more then anything I am completely elated that we are leaving this god forsaken weather behind us.  Regan does a little bit better than I do in the cold being that she is from Newport NH and I am from Newburyport which is probably just slightly warmer at any given time.  We both went to UVM though so you would think I would be able to tough this chilliness out no sweat! (no pun intended either.) Honestly after our Australia travels I just forget what it's like to be really cold.  This is one of the main reasons I wanted to make this trip a reality.  Aloha beaches, here we come.  I really couldn't EVER over-indulge in sun or sand or waves.  Beach bumin' for life.  Boarding call...time to catch up on some sleep just in time for some Miami Madness! 

Smitty and Regan, signing off